Jakes Favourites – My Top Five Walks on Cape Verde
Over the years, I have walked many of the trails spread across the nine islands of Cape Verde and these are the five that shouldn’t be missed:
1 Santo Antao – Cova crater descent into Paul Valley
In terms of wow-facto, the views and scenery on this walk are hard to beat. From Mindelo, a short transfer takes you pretty much straight from Porto Novo up to the rim of the crater, by way of a twisty cobbled road. The crater is spectacular, a great plain divided up into plots of land for growing vegetables and fruits. Soon after the crater, you round a corner and are faced with the sprawling Paul valley. Mind-blowing just doesn’t do it justice, and my jaw was on the floor all the way down the serpentine track. This takes you into the valley and to your overnight accommodation. This is also one of the few Cape Verdean walks that can be done without the need of a local guide, so it’s fantastic option for those seeking independence.
2 Santiago – Calabaceira to Cidade Velha
This is another lovely hike and, if Santiago is the first island you head for, a good introduction to walking in Cape Verde because it is relatively short with hardly any uphill whatsoever. The route takes you from the small village of Calabaceira down a dried-up river bed to the coastal port of Cidade Velha, former capital of Cape Verde and the oldest settlement in the country (visited by historic celebrities Vasco de Gama and Christopher Columbus back in the late 1490s). The thing that makes this walk special to me are the kingfishers – you can spot them in just about every tree you pass as you make your way down the valley! Having failed to spot any here at home I was amazed to see so many at once.
3 Fogo – Mt Fogo Ascent
Perhaps one for those seeking a bit more of a challenge, and with a bit of star-gazing! You need to set off early to gain some height before the scorching sun is fully up. This means you need to stay up in the volcanic crater of Cha das Caldeiras the night before. There are hardly any artificial lights in the crater, making it a perfect location for looking at the starry night sky. An early alarm and a few hours of upward trudging later and you find yourself hundreds of metres above the clouds looking down into the foreboding mouth of an active volcano. They say what goes up must come down and here comes the fun part! The quickest way back down is an exhilarating scree running!
Max’s Blog – Summiting Fogo Volcano on Cape Verde
4 Sao Nicolau – Monte Gordo Natural Park
Though it’s been over 10 years since I was last on Sao Nicolau, a day spent walking in the Monte Gordo natural park is one of the memories that has stuck with me. I remember being amazed by the contrast and diversity of the terrain through which we walked. It was special to be under the shadow of Monte Gordo, itself. One moment we were surrounded by dense green crops including papaya, coffee, tobacco and corn, and the next we were on what seemed to be akin to some sort of lunar landscape! Another bonus about walking here is that there are many different routes to choose from so a great option for those looking for a shorter stroll as well as those looking for a nice long hike.
5 Santo Antao – Cruzinha to Ponta do Sol
I think I mentioned that most of the walking on Cape Verde is guided. Well, it is, but this is a fantastic route that can be done independently. It’s almost impossible to get lost, which is why it’s another favourite of mine. It is quite a long one and there is a fair bit of up and down along the way, but all efforts are rewarded as you arrive at Fontainhas. I think that this is one of the most picturesque villages in Cape Verde. You can quench your thirst with something cold and fizzy! It’s a walk that works in either direction but I prefer going from west to east. This means you finish in the former capital of Ponta do Sol.
There are so many fantastic walks in Cape Verde. If your want to enjoy some walking in Cape Verde, lets have a chat and I can recommend some good trails, based on the kind of walking you generally enjoy: jake@archipelagochoice.com
